Philips (Black Tulip) N5748 HIFI Cassette Deck

[Karsten]

If you experience loss of performance, it could be caused by bad electrolytic capacitors ( 'elco's")

The N5748 is not listed but many other units in your set are (in case you get bored and need something to do the next couple of months ).
http://www.mfbfreaks.com/webshop/compon ... visiesets/
My 22AH586es and 22AH587's have Nichicon Fine Gold in the signal path en BC in the supply lines.

[Michael 5of9]

Update; I have retired my web browser Internet Explorer v11 in favour of Google Chrome. Chrome translates all your pages including your shop straightaway to English my country is identified as Britain (Gears & Belts are ordered)

If you experience loss of performance, it could be caused by bad electrolytic capacitors ( 'elco's")
All elco's with lower cap then 100 uF I renewed in an N5758 ( simmilar deck ) ; many where bad !

Harrie; how did you go about removing the bottom pc board and the upper shelve board from the casing, as it is quite a task to undergo? You can see this on my OneDrive https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=D ... lder%2cJPG

Philips Blue Electrolytic Capacitors; identification of markings what size are they (in plain English please, I could show a photo to be sure?) I’m trying to calculate the quantities and types to place one order.

4µ 7 t = 4 Nano farads, this is identified without the f, but what is the 7 and t stands for?
0.47/ = don’t know this one?
100µf = 100 micro farads
33µ = 33 Nano farads
100µ t = 100 Nano farads, this is identified without the f, but what is the t for?

My 22AH586es and 22AH587's have Nichicon Fine Gold in the signal path en BC in the supply lines.

Karsten; are you saying “Nichicon Fine Gold” plug & socket fittings only, well that is still

[Raicho]

You may have noticed that there's a service hatch in the bottom of the casing, giving access to most components on the mainboard from the bottom (solder side) of the PCB. Otherwise you could take out all boards, the mechanism and the transformer.

Just my 2 pence,

Mark V.

[Harrie]

You may have noticed that there's a service hatch in the bottom of the casing, giving access to most components on the mainboard from the bottom (solder side) of the PCB. Otherwise you could take out all boards, the mechanism and the transformer.

Just my 2 pence,

Mark V.

good pences Mark

Harrie; how did you go about removing the bottom pc board and the upper shelve board from the casing, as it is quite a task to undergo? You can see this on my OneDrive

I 've seen the photo.
Yes, it's a "lot" of work to get the PCB out.
Disconnect the power supply wire's and all others
Remove the steel casing in the back ( just 1 screw )
Maybe you have to remove the front and VU display-panel + PCB, i don't know for sure
with this type with analog VU instruments.

[Karsten]

Hi Michael;

4µ 7 t = 4.7uF (micro, not nano)
0.47/ =0.47uF or 470nF
100µf = 100 micro Farrad
33µ = 33 uF
100µ t = 100 uF

Karsten; are you saying “Nichicon Fine Gold” plug & socket fittings only, well that is still

No, plugs and socket fittings are good as they are. These are the capacitors that I used. Nichicon's "Fine Gold'-series in the signal path and the brand "BC" in the powersupply.

Greetings;


Karsten

[Michael 5of9]

4µ 7 t = 4.7uF (micro, not nano)
0.47/ =0.47uF or 470nF
100µf = 100 micro Farrad
33µ = 33 uF
100µ t = 100 uF

Karsten; thank you for your technical help. I am a bit mystified with this reckoning/result “100µ t = 100 µf” as it looks the same answer as 100µf = 100 micro Farads (µf). There is a difference between the two the first has a “t” and the second has an “f” yet they both add up to the same result?

Please confirm; I have come across one capacitor C734 with the markings; 100µt x 4vo (what is the o for; it’s after the v for volts?) it’s shown in section 32 of the manual

Have come across;
C744/C745 4µ 7 = the drawing U407 shows them as 47µ but the micro is between the 4 and 7 on the cap
C726/C730 10 / = the drawing U412 shows them as 10µ but there is a / slash after the 10 on the cap

Have uploaded photos showing additional parts to consider for spray cleaning with either IPA, Kontakt 61 or Servisol Super 10; these are movable controls No’s 20, 25 balance and volume controls which would be accessed from the rear? 26, 27, 28 recording level controls and fader accessed from the front.

There are adjuster screws to consider giving a spray

There are 3 (non-recognisable) grey/blue capacitors C743, 742, 764 some of these can be seen on my OneDrive; they are shown in section 19 of the manual, should these be replaced as well?

[Robertvs]

Hi,
Those are so called "styroflex capacitors" , most commonly used in hf/rf sections.
They are in the (picoFarad) pF range, not in the (microFarad) uF range
Very stable, so leave them in .
succes

[Karsten]

Hi Michael;

I am a bit mystified with this reckoning/result “100µ t = 100 µf” as it looks the same answer as 100µf = 100 micro Farads (µf)

It is the same.

Please confirm; I have come across one capacitor C734 with the markings; 100µt x 4vo (what is the o for; it’s after the v for volts?) it’s shown in section 32 of the manual

C734 and C735 are 100uF (looking at the scematic but they are not in the partslist.) Can you upload een picture in a post?

C744/C745 4µ 7 = the drawing U407 shows them as 47µ but the micro is between the 4 and 7 on the cap

If one of them is on one of your photos on MyDrive these are 4.7uF/63V.

C726/C730 10 / = the drawing U412 shows them as 10µ but there is a / slash after the 10 on the cap

Going on the drawing they are 10uF the slash normaly seperates the capacitance from the voltage. That indication may be facing the PCB so you can’t see it?
It’s difficult since there is no complete partslist in the documentation only a partial one below each drawing.

Have uploaded photos showing additional parts to consider for spray cleaning with either IPA, Kontakt 61 or Servisol Super 10;

Not “or” but “and”: Cleaning is done with IPA, after drying it can be protected against corrotion with 61. Don’t have any experience with “Servisol Super 10”.
Does it clean and preserve in one go? I prefer to use seperate clean and preserve liquits.

No’s 20, 25 balance and volume controls which would be accessed from the rear?

Yes, you can spray through the holes in the brown Pertinax back plate of the pots and also through the holes on the side of the pots. The IPA will evaporate in about an hour or so. Just a little 61 will suffice to preserve.

There are adjuster screws to consider giving a spray

Yes, with IPA + exersize and after drying a little 61 but make sure the original positions are documented in some way (with a photo and/or a measurement of the resistance they are set to).

There are 3 (non-recognisable) grey/blue capacitors C743, 742, 764 some of these can be seen on my OneDrive; they are shown in section 19 of the manual, should these be replaced as well?

Nope, see Robert’s post.

@ Robert: Are you reading along with all this and do you agree?

I am considering to dig out my N2552, Michael, to get a better idea of what you are talking about but I am not sure wether the components have the same names as inside the N5748...

Does anyone have both decks?
Do all components inside have the samen names?

Greetings;


Karsten

[Robertvs]

@ Robert: Are you reading along with all this and do you agree?

I agree

[Michael 5of9]

Identifying these Blue Electrolytic Capacitors correctly I need help with; the only way to be sure of this is if someone can visually check inside there deck?

Board U410: C734 says 100µf x 4vo, axial, size 10x6mm (it is the 4vo, what is the “o” for)

C742 says 470µf x 16v, radial, size 19x10mm (is it 470µf)

The only differences I can see so far between the N5748 unit and the N2552 PDF manual is; some of the Electrolytic Capacitors don’t match, see board U410 C742 470µf x 16v size 19 x 10mm Radial; is it 470µf it’s shown as 2.7n I don’t trust the drawing in this way

[mjo]

Stop repairing it.
Sell him to me
I am looking for one....

meanwhile i found a very nice one myself.
its on its way from denmark to his new home..

[Michael 5of9]

Hello Karsten

by Karsten » Sat Apr 02, 2016 5:19 pm My 22AH586es and 22AH587's have Nichicon Fine Gold in the signal path en BC in the supply lines.

I think you mean you fitted Nichicon Fine Gold Electrolytic Capacitors (did you replace the lot for these?) instead of the traditional Blue Electrolytic Capacitors

Could you or someone kindly have a look at my previous post which is now much easier to understand as my job has come to a standstill

PS have the replacement gears and belts

[Thomas]

Identifying these Blue Electrolytic Capacitors correctly I need help with; the only way to be sure of this is if someone can visually check inside there deck?

Board U410: C734 says 100µf x 4vo, axial, size 10x6mm (it is the 4vo, what is the “o” for)

The "o" actually is a "0" (zero). This means 4v0 or 4 volts. A rather unnecessery way to indicate the voltage rating of the capacitor. There is also 6V3 which makes sense but for the rest it is always like 10V, 16V 25V etc. I suggest using the maximum available size that fits. I think an axial 100uF 16V will fit perfectly, maybe even 25v. Modern caps are smaller in relation to capacitance and voltage rating than they were 30 years ago.

C742 says 470µf x 16v, radial, size 19x10mm (is it 470µf)

The only differences I can see so far between the N5748 unit and the N2552 PDF manual is; some of the Electrolytic Capacitors don’t match, see board U410 C742 470µf x 16v size 19 x 10mm Radial; is it 470µf it’s shown as 2.7n I don’t trust the drawing in this way

Don't mind the different capacitors in identical devices. Philips used whatever they got their hands on at the moment. Sometimes axial, sometimes radial in these machines. As you work your way through these cassette decks, you will see (for instance on the logic board) that holes are available both for axial or radial capacitors. The PC board is designed to accept both types! Because it's audio equipment we're dealing with, I prefer using Nichicon Fine Gold audio capacitors wherever I can as a replacement for the old radial Philips caps. In the logic board and also power supply, the low-impedance Nichicon PM series are a good choice. Axial Philips 038 series can be perfectly replaced with BC Vishay 021 ASM series which are actually the same types.

[Michael 5of9]

Thank you Thomas for your reply; as usual very helpful, I am amazed at the amount of views this post has had, 3537 to date.

I have created a PDF which gives sizes etc. of every Philips Blue Electrolytic Capacitor fitted on each board and a list giving the quantity required for the replacements. The file name is called N 5748 Chart of Blue Electrolytic Capacitors it can be viewed/downloaded via my Microsoft OneDrive.https://1drv.ms/f/s!AuQDAPiShOjcyj2rZjM2OYJghL_p

Google searching for Electrolytic Capacitors;

Vishay 021 ASM series http://www.mouser.co.uk/search/refine.a ... =163153760

Nichicon FG (UFG) series http://www.mouser.co.uk/Nichicon/Passiv ... bmZ1yi2tfg

Nichicon PM series http://www.mouser.co.uk/search/refine.a ... =178860558

I can remember someone saying to me many years ago; “when you are fitting something it should be fitted in a way that you can work on it in the future” hence make it easy accessible, in this case easy to identify in the future, I am looking to buy one make of Capacitor only, uniform and consistent is the words that comes to mind. I identified these Electrolytic Capacitors only by their colour, hence they were easy to identify.

In my search so far I have discovered; Nichicon FG and PM series are mainly redial build, I’m convinced that these need to be replaced like for like axial and redial! Vishay 021 ASM series these are available in axial this is mainly what is needed and is a good colour blue for identity

PS. I could post the PDF here if it was a smaller file size or allowed a larger file size on the forum?

[Michael 5of9]

I’m just checking; the Capstan Motor has an Electrolytic Capacitor fitted you can see it in the picture here; is this just a normal Electrolytic Capacitors as the markings are different from the others

Secondly is there a manufacturer who makes both axial and redial Electrolytic Capacitors suitable for this renewal as this seems to be a problem here, with availability

The Vishay 136 RVI series; these are redial and very low impedance, could I use some of these to replace the redials?

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/20461 ... 1459956798